The Guadalest Valley has some of Spain's best adventure climbing. There is also easy access to many well developed sports (bolted) crags such as Guadalest which is now one of the best mid grade crags in the Costa Blanca, contact us for a free topo, but be sure to donate to the bolt fund at the Guadalest climbing hut!. Just a few minutes walk from the house are the recently developed El Flare routes with around 95 sport and trad routes. Also close by are the new and spectacular routes at Serella, and Abdet Pinnacle. Be sure to check out our free PDF topos.
The Puig Campana which boasts classic mountain routes of all grades is only 40 minutes drive away. The crags around Sax and Alcoy are all within one hours drive. In fact just about all the venues featured in the Costa Blanca Rockfax central area are within 60 minutes drive time. There is also an amazing Via Ferrata - guide coming soon.
Climbing is possible all year, even on the mountain crags. In summer, although the heat around midday can be fierce, climbing on North facing crags is very pleasant as the humidity is usually very low. It's also possible to climb morning and evening even on South facing crags. Midday can be spent at one of the fantastic local pools or you could even do one of the classic local canyon trips .
Watch our 30 second video below - filmed in December on the Abdet Crags.
Please note we do not provide climbing or mountainering activities or instruction. These are undertaken at your own risk.
The view from Abdet is dominated by the Guadalest reservoir, the town of Guadalest overlooking it on it's rocky perch, and the impressive "Matterhorn" like profile of Bernia in the distance. The Bernia is actually a long limestone ridge that makes a great technical mountain traverse with some easy climbing and abseils required to make the full trip. It is a few kms long and most of the time you ae well above 1,000 metres with superb views over the valleys below and the Costa Blanca coastline. On clear days Ibiza is visible about 40 miles to the East. You will need a 50 metre rope to complete the abseils and at least a few quickdraws and nuts to protect the climbs. It's also worth taking trainers and rock boots. Access is easy via the narrow road that allows you to drive up to the small alpine like houses on the Southern flanks.
Here is a short video of the Diedro UBSA on the Peñón de Ifach. You will get to see some of the amazing views and hopefully sense the exposure you feel on this classic climb,
Diedre UBSA is a classic route on then Penon D'Ifac in Calpe. About 320 metres straight out the sea, its not technically hard, but it has about 10 pitches of excellent climbing at about HVS (grade V) and has a big wall feel to it. It also includes an exposed abseil onto a small ledge to allow a traverse into the final corner pitches. It's then an easy walk back into town and a few beers whilst the sun is setting!
The Peñón is about 60 minutes drive from Abdet, if you are going to do this route pick a day that is not too hot as you will be in the sun most of the day, avoid the summer! take a small pack to carry up water/food. Also a few nuts and cams are useful to protect the route. Double ropes advised as well.