El
Flare - Abdet - Topo - Updated February 2008
produced by www.abdet.com
El Flare Buttresses -
A great selection of routes in a beautiful setting that
would provide several days entertainment for most mid grade
climbers. Some great wall climbing as well as some steep
routes on sector Olbidada and High Buttress. The unusual "rib" on
the Gossos buttress provides a couple of unique routes.
And the stalagtites in Piedra Liquido are not to be missed.
There are several trad routes here that are well worth
doing, so be sure to bring a selection of nuts and cams.
The new Jabali sector offers super easier grade routes.
Also look out for the
wild boar footprints down the track. You may well see a
few of these wondering down the track at dusk if you are
lucky!
Photo: Bruce
Jardine on the first ascent of Piedra Liquida
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Access -
Drive beyond Guadalest (towards Alcoy) on the CV70, take
the sign for L'abdet a few km's before reaching Confrides.
You can also access from the Alcoy side or from Sella (40
minutes). After turning off the main road follow the twisting
road down to Abdet and you will pass a minor track on the
left just after the bridge (park in one of several areas
on the right of the road just beyond, or in the village itself).
Walk back to the track and follow it past a hairpin. Jabali
sectors are up through the woods here, whilst the main wall
is further long this track taking the right fork just past
a house. There appears to be no access problems, but please
respect the area and leave it tidy. El Arco sector is accessed from main road.
Aspect - South West, Jabali sectors face East and South, El
Arco sector faces East, and climbing is possible all year
round. They lie at an altitude of 720 Metres.
Facilities - Check
out the local bars in Abdet and Confrides, self catering
accommodation is available in Abdet - see www.abdet.com |
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Gossos and Spanish
Daze Buttresses
These buttresses lie along the
track past the main face- follow it along until a hairpin bend
back right, take this turn and follow the track to another hairpin beneath Orange Wall (Pared Naranja). Follow faint track up to Orange Wall and take a route up the left side of Orange wall to reach thge foot of Gossos Buttress.You will see the amazing "rib" of Gossos Pillar.
Spanish Daze Buttress
Orange Wall - Pared Naranja
This wall is easily reached as described for Gossos and Spanish Daze. Look for the unusual kissing Tortoises formation on the right!
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| (1) El Gecko con Pied Blanco y Negro |
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 5
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15m. The left hand line up the orange wall is much better than appearances woudl suggest. It has been well cleaned
FA 20/2/2008 Tom and Matthew Phillips |
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| (2) La Tortuga |
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4
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| 20m. A tricky move onto the rib and a steeper finish to lower off
FA 20/2/2008 Tom and Matthew Phillips |
Placa Principal
- Main Wall
This section is easily reached by following
the track past the house and taking the right fork.
| (1) Uno |
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5
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7m. The first line to lower off
First
Ascent Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips, Bruce
Jardine, Joshua Jardine, Connor Jardine. Easter 2007 |
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| (2) Project |
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| 8m. |
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| (3) Flared |
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 6a+
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20m. Bring out
your big cams for this one! The crack starts steep and gnarly,
and gets steeper and more gnarly - excellent. There is a
good chockstone to thread. Belay well back using nuts and
tapes.
First
Ascent Tom Phillips and Dan Drew 29/10/04 |
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| (4) Project |
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| 30m. |
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| (5) Can yon do it like this? |
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 7a
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20m. A steep route with long reaches!
First
Ascent Mark Edwards 31/10/2007 |
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| (6) Viva
Abdet |
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6a+
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30m. A
great line with continual interest and a steep finish.
Move up and left passing a small ledge to gain the flake.
Continue straight up passing a bulge near the top on superb
pockets. Avoid the use of the dubious flakes on the right
of the route. The route is 6a WITHOUT the use of these.
First Ascent Tom Phillips/Bruce
Jardine 10/03/05 |
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Sector
Luiquida - Routes 3, 4 and 5 (Sector Liquida)
start in a bay to the left of Via Almendra. Take
care accessing this bay. There is a belay ring
at the bottom of route 5.
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| (7) Piedra
Líquida |
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25m. Magnificent
climbing up the amazing flowstone and stalactites
just right of the corner. A steep starting
move over the initial roof leads to an
easier section. Steep moves up the first
section of stalactites leads to a difficult
clip (avoid moving into the boulder filled
corner!). Now move back right past the
final bolt in order to clip the lower off.
Finishing direct is harder, probably 6b+
First
Ascent Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips
12/03/05 |
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25m. Climb
past the small tree and up the groove of
calcited blocks and flowstone (thread and
tape runners). Finally move left to find
a couple of good holds that allow access
to the overhanging finger crack, steep and
fierce! the crux is getting stood on the
ledge above the finger crack.
First
Ascent Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine
12/03/05 |
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| (9) Gema
Ocultado |
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5+
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30m. A
cunning line starting at the lowest part of the rib. Climb
up until it is possible to bridge up the gully for a few
moves (use of the tree is allowed!). Then a hold on the left
wall allows moves to be made up to the arête. Continue
up to a tricky last move to the lower off point.
FATom Phillips/Bruce
Jardine 12/03/05 |
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| (10) Via
Almendra |
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35m A
stunning line up the imposing pillar that leans out over
the track. Start to the right of the pillar and an traverse
across until a few steep moves allow access
to the crack that runs to the top of the pillar. It is just
possible to abseil to the starting ledge with a 60 Metre
rope. Rock is much better than appearances suggest!
FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine
10/03/05 |
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| (11) Marques
de Monistrol |
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4+ |
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35m Start
in the gully, bridge up until better holds allow you to swing
out onto the main face. Huge pockets and jugs lead to thinner
moves on the face above. Move up then right to gain a large
ledge and belay rings. The top pitch is easy but still worthwhile. Can just be done in one pitch
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish,
Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005 |
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| (12) Círculo
Blanco |
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30m. Direct
through the bulge at the left side of the main face, again
has a little sting in the tail
FA Tom
Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05 |
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| (13) Sin
Cava |
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30m. Takes
a direct line up the steep main face. Very sustained and
with a little sting in the tail
FA Tom
Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05 |
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| (14) Via
Jardin |
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 6a |
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40m. Weaves
it's way up the big wall with tricky starting moves. Finishes
by moving right onto the top of the pillar. As this route
is is about 40 metres long you may want to split it at
the half way point (belay rings in place).
FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine
10/03/05 |
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| (15) San
Miguel |
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30m. This
superb route take the sustained steep pillar begining the
tree. Take care at the start to avoid the loose gully on
the right. From the top of the pedestal launch up the face,
30 metres of 6a moves to the lower off! A quality Spanish
product.
FA
Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon
Gerrish /8/2005 |
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| (16) Mahou |
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6a
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5m. A short technical
route - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the steep slope
(care) beneath routes 3 and 4.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish,
Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005 |
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| (17) Fink
Brau |
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5
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6m. Climb the obvious
groove direct - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the
steep slope (care) beneath routes 3 and 4.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick
Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005 |
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| (18) Sin
Alcohol |
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20m. From
the ring bolt climb up and left to the arête (two bolt
runners). Then climb direct taking to obvious crack through
the small overhang.
FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish,
Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005 |
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| (19) Buckler |
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 HVS
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20m. From
the ring bolt climb the groove to a ledge - move right two
opposing flakes before trending left to the belay.
FA
Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon
Gerrish 14/8/2005 |
El Flare Buttress
This buttress gives some excellent routes,
all have twin bolt lower offs. Routes are around 25 Metres long.
Routes 4 and 5 require nuts and cams
| (1) Project |
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22m.
| (2) Knock
on Wood |
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22m. An easy start leads
to thin moves to gain the edge of the large sloping ledge, which
is tricky to get onto. Then steep moves up the top section on good
but widely spaced holds lead to an
easier finish.
FA 30/12/05 Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish
| (3) New
Years Revolutions |
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25m. Climb past the large
flakes and tackle some hard moves through the overlaps - the crux is
moving up and left to pass the first overlap. Move back right to reach
easier ground - lower off from top.
FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips
| 4) Second
of the First |
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25m. Climb
to the flakes and make a bold step right to reach a sequence of good
holds on the steep wall - lower off from top.
FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips
| (5) El
Placa |
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25m Straight
up the steep wall, stepping right onto the top arête in a
great position - lower off from top.
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew
| (6) Flare
Corner |
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25m. Thin
moves up and right allow entry to the corner - The E1 grade allows
you to clip the first bolt on route 3 - great climbing up the corner,
step right under the roof to gain the upper wall - lower off from
top
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew
| (7) The
Trundle |
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HS
4b
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20m. Climb the right
rib and ledges to lower off. Named after the mega trundle whilst
cleaning the route - see movie
clips
FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and
Dan Drew
Placa Olbidada
This
hidden wall provides short but steep routes on superb rock.
It is approached by walking underneath El Flare Buttress
and scrambling up the gully underneath the wall. Ideal on
hot days as it stays in shade until late in the day. Routes
are described from the bottom of the gulley upwards
12m. Steep,
with the crux between clips 1 and 3. The crags first 7a
FA Julian Maund
02/01/07
15m. A thin start
and a tricky finish
FA Michael Brohan,
Jarek Svoboda 28/11/2006
| (3) Via
Central |
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15m. Bridge up
using the boulder to clip the first bolt - sustained.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine
26/08/05
16m. Direct up
to the crack high on the head wall
FA Jarek Svoboda,
Michael Brohan 28/11/2006
| (5) |
Last of
the Last . . . . . . . . . . |
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13m. A hard start
to gain the small ledge, then climb the sequence of tufa
holds before a steep finish. FA
Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross 31/12/05
| (6) |
Via
Izquierda . . . . . . . . . . . . |
5+
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12m. Step
off the small boulder and climb the left arete, use
of the jamed boulders in the gully lowers the grade.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce
Jardine 26/08/05 |
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La Bahia
This section provides a variety
of short routes on some excellent sharp rock, as well as an easy
traditional route up the classic ramp line of "The Bat" (El
Murciélago). The best approach is by traversing through
the woods from Jabali sector (passing Dias Halcon Butress)
| (1) Clear
Air Stirs |
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A Short route on perfect rock just
left of centre.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine
01/Sep/2006 |
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| (2) Virgin
on the impossible |
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The right line on this short butress
is a sequence of powerful moves to easier ground
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve
24/Aug/2006 |
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| (3) Real
Art Crisis |
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Traverse out on a thin sequence
of holds to a great position above the overhangs. Finish
direct to lower off
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine
01/Sep/2006 |
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| (4) Project |
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| (5) Scarier
Trials |
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Sustained climbing directly up
the centre of the face.
FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine
01/Sep/2005 |
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| (6) Paraiso |
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6a+
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The right hand line on this butress.
Climb the first section using holds on the arete, before
moving left and tackling the delightful high corner
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve
24/Aug/2006 |
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| (7) Enganoso |
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6b
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A lone route up the middle of the
steep butress at the right of the arch sector. climb the
large boulder to a thread then direct up the steep wall to
an easier finish. Shares the lower of with el murciélago.
FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve
22/Aug/2006 |
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| (8) El
Murciélago |
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Takes the obvious hanging slab
and climbs over a small bulge at the top to bolt lower off
FA Tom Phillips, Sam Mulhall,
Neil Mulhall, Matthew Phillips 15/Aug/2006 |
JABALI SECTORS
These sectors lie close to the road
leading into Abdet. Due to the fact that the climbing is on pillars
you can get shade or sun until around midday, and then they come
into shade again in the evening. They offer good climbing at an easy
standard. The left sectors are bolted whilst the right sectorshave some easy
trad. Walk up the El flare track until you reach the wood. Then follow
a track up as marked on the topo to reach the buttresses. All
routes have lower off points. Dias Halcòn Butress lies 50
metres to the left of the upper pillar.
DIAS
HALCÒN BUTRESS
This
small butress lies about 50 metres to the left of the two main
pillars of Jabali sector. Although very short the routes are
on immaculate rock and are very worthwhile.
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Jabali
MAIN SECTOR
The Main Sectors at Jabali consist of two dome shaped
pinacles. The routes are up to 28 Metres long, and
most are at a reasonable angle on superb rock.
The Wave Sector lies between the two pinacles.
You can usually climb in sun or shade until midday,
and again in evening. From midday until late afternoon
most routes are in the sun. There are a few traditional
lines following unusual strata/fault lines here so
bring along some nuts and cams.
The area is very unspoilt with great views down
the Guadalest valley to the Bernia Ridge.
Please respect the area and be sure to take all
your litter with you. |
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UPPER
PILLAR
| (1) El
Borde |
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5
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25m. The
very left hand route on the upper pillar. Right on
the edge! Start a couple of metres up the gully and
swing out onto the left edge, it has one tricky move
at half height.
FA 4/06/06
- Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips |
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| (2) El
Punto |
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5+
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25m. The
next route right has a steep start before mvoing left
to an obvious spike. Climb up and then back right (shares
top bolts and lower off with the next route)
FA 4/06/06
- Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips |
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| (3) La
Rampa |
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4
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25m. Start
up the small left sloping ramp and then climb direct
to the top
FA 3/06/06
- Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips |
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| (4) Potosi |
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